Fashion has always been a vital aspect of royal life, and for the empresses and imperial concubines of ancient China, their clothing was a key marker of status, virtue, and influence. The fashion styles of these women were not merely about appearance but also carried deep symbolic meanings tied to their roles within the imperial court. From the grandeur of their ceremonial attire to the intricacies of their everyday robes, the fashion choices of the empresses and concubines reflected the dynastic power they embodied.

This article explores the evolution of fashion among China’s royal women, focusing on the aesthetics, significance, and evolution of their attire. We will look at how their fashion choices represented their cultural identity, status, and personal power within the court, as well as how these styles were shaped by political and historical factors throughout various dynasties.

1. The Role of Fashion in the Imperial Court

In imperial China, clothing was not simply a matter of personal taste or aesthetic preference. Instead, it was deeply intertwined with social hierarchy, political symbolism, and Confucian values. The imperial court followed a strict set of rules when it came to fashion, and the attire of the emperor, empress, and concubines served to reinforce the dynastic authority and symbolize their connection to the heavens.

For royal women, particularly empresses and concubines, their attire represented their rank within the harem. The fashion choices of these women were a key element in maintaining the image of imperial power. Each article of clothing and accessory they wore had significant meaning, from the colors and materials used to the intricate designs and symbolic motifs.

2. Fashion in the Tang Dynasty: Luxurious and Ornate

The Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE) is often regarded as a period of cultural flourishing in China, and its fashion was no exception. During this time, the empresses and concubines of the court wore sumptuous garments that showcased the prosperity and power of the dynasty. Their clothing was characterized by rich fabrics, vibrant colors, and intricate embroidery, reflecting the opulence and cosmopolitan nature of the Tang court.

A. The Flowing Silhouettes of Tang Fashion

The fashion of the Tang Dynasty was marked by a style that emphasized loose and flowing silhouettes. Women’s robes, called “ruqun,” were wide-sleeved and made from silk or other luxurious materials. These garments were designed to be voluminous, offering both elegance and freedom of movement. The dresses featured wide, cascading sleeves that were often decorated with elaborate embroidery, representing the high status of the wearer.

The empress, as the highest-ranking woman in the empire, wore more elaborate versions of these robes, often in shades of red, gold, and purple—colors that symbolized imperial power. The rich fabrics and intricate details in her attire, such as gold thread embroidery and gemstone embellishments, further highlighted her importance in the court.

B. Jewelry and Accessories

Jewelry played a key role in the fashion of royal women during the Tang Dynasty. Empresses and high-ranking concubines wore elaborate necklaces, earrings, and headdresses. The jewelry was often crafted from gold, jade, and pearls, with intricate designs that reflected the wealth and prestige of the wearer. The “jinzhuang,” a crown-like ornament, was worn by the empress to signify her supreme status, and it was often decorated with precious stones and metals.

In addition to jewelry, hairpieces were another important accessory for royal women. During the Tang period, women wore their hair in complex, sculpted styles, often adorned with gold and jade hairpins. These hairstyles were a clear marker of the woman’s rank and status.

3. Fashion in the Song Dynasty: Grace and Subtlety

The Song Dynasty (960-1279 CE) was a period of social and economic development, but it also saw a shift in aesthetic values, particularly in fashion. Unlike the extravagance of the Tang period, the Song Dynasty embraced more modest and refined styles, emphasizing simplicity, elegance, and grace. This was in part due to the influence of Neo-Confucianism, which promoted virtues such as modesty and humility.

A. Elegant Simplicity in Song Fashion

During the Song Dynasty, empresses and concubines wore robes that were simpler and more streamlined than the previous century’s garments. These robes, typically made of silk, were less voluminous and featured more subtle, understated colors. While colors such as red and purple were still associated with the imperial family, they were used in more muted shades. Empresses and high-ranking women often wore pale shades of green, yellow, or blue, which represented both femininity and sophistication.

The overall silhouette of the robes was more fitted compared to the loose and flowing styles of the Tang period. Empresses wore garments that cinched at the waist, emphasizing their figure while maintaining a graceful, dignified appearance. The robes were often decorated with intricate patterns or embroidery, but the designs were less lavish and more refined, reflecting the more subdued, philosophical ethos of the Song era.

B. The Influence of Neo-Confucianism on Fashion

The rise of Neo-Confucianism during the Song Dynasty had a significant influence on the fashion choices of royal women. The Confucian ideals of modesty, humility, and propriety were reflected in the simpler, more restrained clothing of the time. The emphasis on moral virtue over ostentatious displays of wealth and power was particularly evident in the fashion of the empress and concubines, who were expected to embody the ideal of moral refinement.

Unlike the opulent jewelry of the Tang period, the jewelry of Song-era empresses was more delicate and modest. Jade and gold were still favored materials, but the pieces were often smaller and more subtle in design, emphasizing refinement rather than wealth.

4. Fashion in the Qing Dynasty: Formality and Rigor

The Qing Dynasty (1644-1912 CE), the last imperial dynasty of China, brought with it a more rigid and formal system of fashion that was closely tied to the ideals of power, hierarchy, and control. The Qing court, influenced by Manchu culture, adopted distinctive styles of dress that set the empresses and concubines apart from those of earlier dynasties.

A. The Iconic Manchu Court Dress

During the Qing period, the empress and imperial concubines wore elaborate robes known as “qipao” or “cheongsam.” These robes were often made of silk and featured a high collar, a straight skirt, and a loose-fitting top. The design was distinctly different from the flowing garments of previous dynasties and was influenced by the practical, more structured clothing worn by the Manchu people.

Qing court fashion was defined by its use of bright colors and intricate designs. Empresses often wore robes made of richly embroidered silk, featuring motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, clouds, and flowers, each with specific symbolic meanings. The dragon represented the emperor’s power, while the phoenix symbolized the empress’s status as the counterpart to the emperor. These motifs were designed to emphasize the harmony between the emperor and empress and the divine legitimacy of their rule.

B. Jewelry and Headdresses in the Qing Court

The jewelry and headdresses worn by Qing empresses were particularly grandiose. The empress’s headdress was often adorned with precious stones, pearls, and gold, signifying her supreme status in the imperial court. She also wore numerous layers of golden jewelry, including necklaces, bracelets, and rings, often set with large diamonds, jade, and rubies.

The crown worn by the empress was a highly symbolic accessory, often featuring gold, jade, and intricate designs that reinforced her imperial status. It was typically worn during formal ceremonies and served as an emblem of her elevated position in the court.

5. Symbolism Behind Royal Fashion Choices

The clothing of empresses and concubines was not just a fashion statement but a reflection of their power, status, and role in the empire. In many cases, the colors, fabrics, and designs were symbolic of various aspects of imperial life. For example, red was a color closely associated with power, gold with the divine right to rule, and jade with virtue and purity.

Fashion was also used as a tool for political and social positioning within the royal court. Empresses who had the most intricate, elaborate attire were often viewed as more influential, while those with more modest clothing could indicate a more reserved or passive role in court politics.

6. Legacy of Imperial Fashion: From Royal Court to Modern Day

The fashion styles of empresses and concubines have left an enduring legacy on Chinese culture. Today, elements of royal fashion are still seen in modern Chinese clothing, particularly in ceremonial or traditional attire. The opulence of the Qing Dynasty’s court dress and the elegance of the Song Dynasty robes continue to influence the design of formal wear and bridal garments in China.

In conclusion, the fashion of empresses and concubines in imperial China was a reflection of their status, cultural values, and the political environment of their time. Through their clothing, they communicated power, virtue, and authority, becoming enduring symbols of China’s rich history and cultural legacy. The opulence and elegance of their attire not only served to define their position in the royal court but also reinforced the dynastic ideals that shaped Chinese civilization for centuries.